Ethical Myanmar Travel Guide: What To Know Before You Go

Is it Ethical to Travel in Myanmar?

Prior to the military coup, the Rohingya Crisis in Myanmar posed a difficult moral choice about whether it was ethical to visit Myanmar at a time where over half a million Rohingya refugees had to flee the country because of violence.

• The guardian has extensive coverage and articles about the genocide.

Choosing to travel there at this time was, of course, a personal decision since other regions in Myanmar remained separate from this conflict. Still, it is good to be well-informed about the situation, political tensions and the Myanmar government’s actions, which are not reflective of its people overall.

Myanmar Travel Guide – Foreword

Travel to Myanmar (or travel to Burma, if referring to its former name) is hot on the Southeast Asia travel trail now. Yet, as a country that has only recently opened its doors to tourism over the past decade, travelling here means facing many challenges that you do not necessarily encounter on the same scale as other countries in the region.

Infrastructure is only just beginning to spring into life, and the art of the tourist trade is still in the developing process, yet every second of the long journey times, the energy expended in the daily frustrations. The patience and sign language needed to cross the language barrier is worth it for the rewarding experience you will have travelling in Myanmar.

Be prepared for the different kind of travel you will encounter in Myanmar, and don’t believe the scaremongering about the ridiculous expense and immense difficulties that are putting many people off travelling here.

The beauty of being in Myanmar is in not knowing what will happen and in the understanding that both you as a traveller, alongside the local people are helping to bring about a new beginning. Tourism in Myanmar is a new lifeline, providing it does not eventually ruin the country, which is a current concern.

Here you will find a comprehensive Myanmar Guide that I pulled together after travelling through the country for one month. A resource which I hope is useful, before you jump headfirst into a place which Kipling described as, “unlike any land you know about”.

Is Myanmar Safe Now?

Right now, ALL TRAVEL TO MYANMAR SHOULD BE AVOIDED.

Before the Military coup, a trip to Myanmar was considered safe with no tourist-related violence having been reported in the known traveller circuit of Yangon, Bagan, Inle Lake, Hsipaw, Pyin Oo Lwin, Mandalay and the Mergui Archipelago.

I never encountered any issues, and the only time I felt a little uncomfortable was when some of us were travelling to a recently opened part of the country. We were clearly under some surveillance (more so at bus checkpoints) being new in town. I never once felt in danger, and nor did I feel in danger despite the curfews in some places.

I was always advised to avoid any protests and demonstrations and be more cautious should there be a military event, celebration or rally. In short, don’t get involved.

Heightened Caution in Rakhine State

While no foreign office or state departments are placing high warnings or statements suggesting avoiding travel to Myanmar unless necessary, there is updated advice. Since the end of 2017 does show a warning for significant risk of violence in the Rakhine state and the northwestern region of the country.

Like with any political situation, it is wise to stay up to date with developments and the advice of your foreign office in case of a Myanmar travel warning. The UK Foreign Office, for example, advises being more vigilant on the anniversary of the attacks in Rakhine on 25th August 2017.

Avoid Land Borders

It is further advised (including the official land border crossings) to avoid the border areas, especially those with Thailand, Laos and China (but also India and Bangladesh). This avoidance is due to drug smuggling activity and military and ethic militia activity where regular armed clashes take place.

Internal conflicts still plague Myanmar, and while many of the areas where these take place are entirely off-limits to tourists without a permit anyway, it is good to stay aware of exactly where you shouldn’t be visiting. Here is an overview of what the UK Foreign Office state in their travel advice:

Burmese People Are Welcoming to Tourists

Burmese people are the most genuine, friendly, warm-hearted and amazingly beautiful people I have ever met.

Not one will turn you away when you need help, and hardly anyone will try to short change you or be cheeky in a transaction.

They are so fascinated by the presence of outsiders, that you can see the sheer excitement on their faces. Smile and say hello, shake hands, hug, exchange e-mail addresses and revel in the great reaction you get back.

Myanmar or Burma? Why Did it Change Its Name?

The country formally known as Burma gained independence in 1948 from occupying forces. Still, it wasn’t until 1989 that the ruling military junta (that retains majority power today), changed the country’s name from Burma to Myanmar following a military coup.

Myanmar vs Burma – is it the same? Politically no. In tourism, yes. 

Politically, the name Burma was seen as a relic of the country’s former British colonial past, and Myanmar as more inclusive of the many ethnic groups in the country. Other names were also changed, which is why you will see Rangoon now referred to as Yangon.

For tourism, to travel Burma is to travel Myanmar. Same same, as they say in Southeast Asia.

Both Burma and Myanmar are still used interchangeably, on the ground and the world stage. This article breaks down the changes, what you ‘should’ say and the question: does it even matter?

Who Can Travel to Myanmar? Visas and How to Get There

Visas for Myanmar can be obtained online from the official governmental eVisa website and costs $50 (or $56 for an express service).

Flights to Myanmar are the usual option for travellers as the first mode of entry, with regularly scheduled services from Bangkok. But, considering where Myanmar is located – bordered by China to the North and Northeast, Thailand and Laos to the east and India and Bangladesh to its west – there are multiple avenues for land entry. However, not all of them are advised due to safety.

Regardless, you must specify a “Port of Entry” in your online application which denotes how you will be getting to Myanmar. You will be given a list of options, from which you will need to choose one of the following:

Myanmar Designated International Airports:

• Mandalay (located right in the middle of Myanmar)
• Yangon (located in the south)
• Nay Pyi Taw (situated in between Mandalay and Yangon)

Crossing at Land Border Checkpoints:

• Tachileik (in the Shan State of eastern Myanmar on the border to northern Thailand)
• Myawaddy (in the Kayin State of southeastern Myanmar on the border to western Thailand)
• Kawthaung (in the southernmost part of Myanmar, Tanintharyi Region on the border of the Thai Peninsula and the cluster of islands)
• Tamu (in the Sagaing Region of northwestern Myanmar on the border to northeastern India)
• Rih Khaw Dar (a six-hour drive from the border village of Khawmawi in the northwestern Chin State of Myanmar on the border of Southeastern India)

In reality, you can enter Myanmar at any designated “Port of Entry”, but it is best to stick to the one you originally stated if possible to prevent any hold up in the processing of your visa upon arrival.

You can exit at any of the International Airports and Land Border Checkpoints since your exit point does not need to be stated up-front. Additionally, you may leave at the Htikee Land Border Checkpoint, although entry from here is not possible.

While a month of travelling is not possible for everyone if you can make the most of your 28-day visa for a Myanmar trip, do. This country is not one to be seen in a few days or a week, much like you can do the key highlights in the more easily navigable Cambodia and Vietnam. Myanmar is a vast country and travel times are long, plus it takes times to get to grips with how things work here and understanding the people, the culture and the political climate. Spend at least two weeks here if you can – skimming this incredible landscape is an absolute waste.

Best Time to Visit Myanmar

There are typically three seasons in which you can visit Myanmar:

• October to March: Dry, winter season
• March to May: Hot, summer season
• May to October: Wet, rainy season

Taking into account the climate and tourism footfall, I recommend the following seasonal breakdowns.

I want to go to Myanmar when there is cooler weather

Downside: Lots of tourists

The popular, high season is November to February when the weather is warm but not stifling, and attracts the most significant number of visitors.

This season, in turn, makes the limited accommodation options tricky to secure and will mean trying to book ahead or face paying out for the more expensive options left over.

I want to go to Myanmar when it is not so crowded with visitors

Downside: It’s stifling hot

March to May is the time when the temperature rises in Myanmar and impending rains are due. I choose to travel in May, as the monsoon season typically starts in June.

I wanted to arrive just before the rains, where there was a limited number of tourists, and I could walk into a guesthouse and get a room without any problems. The only downside to this time of the year is that it is incredibly hot and I mean disgustingly, sweaty hot.

The Best of Myanmar – Where to Go and Things to Do

You won’t be short on options about where to go in Myanmar, and a traveller path has been lightly trodden. The loop between Yangon and Mandalay is both easily accessible and well established for a good reason, so don’t be put off by those Myanmar destinations listed as tourist spots. What to see in Myanmar depends entirely on your own desired ration of culture and adventure, since the country is filled with everything from city exploration, multi-day hikes, cycling tours and river journeys. And with Myanmar’s location next to the Andaman Sea (and the Bay of Bengal), beach time and diving are also on the list.

Carve your path.

• 3 Star Shwe Ingyinn Hotel
• 4 Star Jasmine Palace Hotel
• 4 Star PARKROYAL Yangon
• 4.5 Star Hilton Mandalay
• A wide range of 3-5 star hotels are available to meet all preferences and budgets.

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